Historic Walks - Chartham to Canterbury

Exploring Canterbury and its surrounding countryside by foot is the best way to both see the city's incredible sights, and to connect with its rich history. Photographer and writer Sally Gurteen takes us on our journey along one of the city's most beautiful walking routes, sharing its ancient story and providing a sneak peek of the magical scenery en route.

Perfect for a soulful autumn stroll...

Did you know that Medieval Canterbury was regarded as the most prominent pilgrimage site in the United Kingdom? Indeed, it remains a religious centre to this current day, drawing over a million tourists into the city walls and Cathedral every year.

In September 2024, Canterbury celebrated 800 years of the arrival of the Franciscans in Dover, as they made their way on foot to the shrine of St Thomas Becket. If you spend enough time in the city, you’re likely to still spot Franciscan monks clad in plain brown or, more traditionally as per their namesake, grey robes, particularly within the precincts of the Greyfriars Gardens where the first monastery was built in 1267, remaining to this day alongside the River Stour.

The vows of the Franciscans were to poverty, humility, and dedication to serving the poor, preaching on foot as they travelled, which is how their influence spread across Europe, establishing hospitals to offer support and hospitality to fellow pilgrims on route to the shrine, as well as city residents in need of care and counsel.

One of the more significant routes that the pilgrims would take was along what’s still known as ‘The Pilgrims’ Way’ – a 141-mile ancient route running from Winchester to Canterbury Cathedral - pre-dating Christianity but gaining association with holy purpose since Becket’s death in 1170. In modern times, many still take this pilgrimage, as do intrepid travellers looking to enjoy the English countryside and the historic and scenic sights along the way.

Religious or not, this walk can be followed under the principles that also guide the Franciscans, which include an appreciation for beauty, and a reverence for all creation. Indeed, St Francis of Assisi, the founding body behind the Franciscan order, was bestowed with his patron sainthood of ecology in 1979 (753 years after his death) for his great respect for nature, captured in his famous poem ‘Canticle of the Sun’ where he contemplates the creator at work in the world, and encountering God in all things.

If you have plans to visit the city of Canterbury, and yet no plans to walk 141 miles to do so, you can enjoy some of the walking route and be rewarded with part of the experience that would have been encountered by the Franciscans and pilgrims as they made their final descent into the city with the cathedral on the horizon, as well as the meditative benefits that walking offers. So, rather than take an ordinary stroll, try to walk the path in the spirit of the Franciscans.

The walk starts in the village of Chartham (not to be confused with Chatham) and ends in the Westgate Gardens in Canterbury. To follow this shorter section of the route at a gentler 3 miles, alight Southeastern trains at Chartham Station, which have services coming from Ashford International, London and the coast.  Here you can prepare with drinks at the Village Shop on the Green and have a wander around this old village making sure to see St Anne’s Church where pilgrims paused for respite before heading onto the footpath that runs alongside the water.

If it’s a Saturday, Chartham Vineyard is open between 10am and 2pm where you can taste a little local wine as well as admiring exhibitions in their small art gallery.

To meet the river path, join the dirt track through Chartham Village Hall car park and then it’s one simple, straight line along the river all the way down to your destination.

Trees are abundant along this route renowned for its ash, alder and different varietals of willow. In the peak of spring, you can enjoy spotting the bright growth of new willow, leafy walnuts, and plenty of bramble, elderflower and hawthorn blossom. The first point to draw a moment of contemplation is the steps that help control the speed of the water – a reminder of the constant flow of life. Listen to the sound of the river here and, in the winter, you might even spot little white egrets near to the abandoned mill houses overlooking the water.

Soon you will come to another ‘mini fall’ of water that runs alongside a large manor house whose garden boasts a giant beech alongside a crooked monkey puzzle tree. Aside from marvelling at the impressive power of the beech tree, the two together might prompt you to reflect upon how there can be great kinship between the most unlikely of characters.  It is around this area that you could be lucky enough to spot a kingfisher zipping past in a flash of flamboyant colour.

As you continue, you will pass through some kissing gates to an area lined with tall, brittle willows that offer plenty of dappled shade. The lakes alongside are excellent for spotting cygnets and swans, cormorants drying their wings by the reeds, or fish like chub, perch or pike in the river if you look from the metal bridge that stretches across the water to an old quarry. Keep your ears alert in this area in the months of May and June where cuckoos can be heard in singsong. You will notice distant orchards and vineyards on the horizon behind the lakes that echo Kent’s long rural history.

The path begins to open into a large meadow area with a single holm oak in sight. There are many lonely oaks such as these across the country - a leftover from farming days to provide shade for cattle and workers or mark a boundary in the land. Be sure to stop and say hello. Take a seat if you have time, as the tree’s roots are ideal for perching upon and look down into the river where families of swans often mill.

If you’re on the walking path between summer and autumn, you’ll find flocks of grazing sheep on the wild pasture. On hotter days, you can spot them resting beneath a grove of trees or in the brick alcoves of the road bridge. Beyond this bridge are more private fishing lakes encircled by willows and ash trees. The perimeter of the lake is often where you will spot a wading heron, and a glance up into the trees will reveal the perches of resting cormorants throughout the year. 

As you venture further, be sure to admire the long gardens of the houses that begin to appear alongside the river. Among them, you will see an old farmhouse and a flint-stone Norman church (St Nicholas’ Church, Thanington) that is enclosed by old waterways and features a beautiful weeping willow where there are sometimes grazing donkeys. 

You will soon reach Hambrook Marshes, a local spot for spying rare migratory birds, butterflies and other wildlife. This area is crucial to the health of the city and the river, and floods with water in the winter season (be sure to wear wellies if walking the route during this time). Here you will also begin to see the spires of Canterbury Cathedral in the distance. Imagine how pilgrims walking the full route must feel to see such a sight! Cows graze here in the late summer months and have done for centuries.

Take note of the old 1880s brick railway bridge and its stunning arches, nodding to the transport history of the city, which saw the first commercial train route in 1830 along the Crab and Winkle Way.

Passing through Toddler’s Cove (a playground area) you will finally come to your destination, though the journey isn’t quite over. Canterbury’s Westgate Gardens is an ideal place for spotting ancient and interesting trees. Try to find:

+ The Great Oriental Plane, which is over 200 years old

+ A stunning Dawn Redwood tree

+ A towering Tulip Tree that branches across an old stone archway

Be sure to take note of the city’s latest sculptural addition ‘Alluvia’ – an underwater statue next to the Westgate Towers by artist Joseph de Caires.

Once arrived in the city, you might like to take a river tour for a different view of the route you have just taken, or head to the Greyfriars Gardens (admission fees apply) to say hello to a little stone statue of St Francis Assisi himself and admire the old monastery.

Further reading: 

24 Hours in Canterbury

A Food Lover’s Guide to Canterbury